Best Climbing Harness | TEST 2023 – Women & Men
Which harness is the right one for you? To make sure you don’t invest in the wrong harness we present the 6 best climbing harnesses in our test.
- We tested 14 climbing harnesses.
- We divided the winners into 7 categories.
- We focused on 7 criteria – comfort, functionality, and a reasonable price tag are just three of them – find out what else makes a harness great.
Best Climbing Harness – Overview of the 6 Winners
Best Beginner Climbing Harness
Black Diamond Momentum
- The Momentum is one of the most popular all-around climbing harnesses on the market. And judging by the many positive reviews, it’s going to stay that way.
- The harness weighs just 350 g and can be used for any kind of climbing.
- Adjustable leg loops and comfortable fit.
- The 4 pressure-molded gear loops are clearly arranged, easily accessible, and super durable.
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Best Rock Climbing Harness
Black Diamond Solution
- Lightweight yet comfortable.
- Total freedom of movement, ergonomic fit, and brilliant performance, designed specifically to fulfill the needs of sport climbers.
- All-day long “climbing & belaying” – that’s what the Solution is made for.
- The harness weighs 330 g, striking a balance between weight and comfort.
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Best Lightweight Climbing Harness
Petzl Sitta
- A high-end climbing harness for sport climbing and mountaineering – that’s what Petzl advertises this harness as, and we think they did a great job.
- The Petzl Sitta weighs only 270 g and is amazingly comfortable.
- Innovative Design.
- If you’re looking for a lightweight yet comfortable harness, you should definitely take a closer look at the Sitta.
- I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it exclusively for sport climbing, but it could be just what you need if you’re a versatile climber.
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Best Climbing Harness for Alpine / Ice Climbing
Arcteryx AR-395a
- Whether aid climbing, alpine climbing, ice climbing, or multi-pitch climbing – the AR-395a feels most comfortable when a lot of gear is needed.
- Adjustable leg loops make the harness extremely versatile, no matter whether you’re wearing thin climbing pants or thick winter pants.
- At 395 g, it doesn’t weigh much and remains comfortable, even during intensive use – and when your climb takes a little longer than expected.
- Well thought out – the placement of the ice clipper slots makes them easy to use.
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Best Climbing Harness for Multi-pitch Climbing / Trad Climbing
Black Diamond Solution Guide
- Finally, a harness that was made specifically for trad climbing and multi-pitch climbing – Thank you!
- This climbing harness is made from a material coated with epoxy resin, making it extremely durable and abrasion-resistant.
- The leg loops are elasticated, which saves weight and ensures a snug fit around your thighs. The harness weighs just 394 g.
- A fifth gear loop gives you space for additional equipment. The harness is also available in a women’s version.
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Best All-round Climbing Harness for Women
Petzl Luna
- Specifically designed for the female anatomy.
- The well-padded and most comfortable harness we tested.
- Thanks to its fit and comfort, the Luna has proven itself to be especially well suited for beginners and climbing newcomers.
- The leg loop adjustment options make it very versatile and suitable for any discipline and season.
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What makes a good Climbing Harness?
Our 7 Test Criteria:
1. Mobility – Freedom of Movement
How well can you move while wearing the harness? Is your freedom of movement restricted in any way?
We extensively tested the freedom of movement of the harnesses. The lightweights have the advantage here most of the time, but we also found some durable harnesses that offer excellent freedom of movement.
2. Comfort “Hanging“
How comfortable is the harness when you’re hanging in it – especially if you’re hanging in it for a long time, over and over again?
When “projecting” a route in sport climbing, it’s very uncomfortable if the harness creates pressure points or obstructs blood flow.
The same goes for long alpine routes or multi-pitch climbs where you often have to wait at the anchor point for a long time. How is the weight distributed in the harness, are there pressure points, or does the harness ensure an even distribution of weight due to clever design?
3. Belaying Comfort / Wearing Comfort
If you climb a lot, you will most likely spend a lot of time belaying. If your harness constantly creates pressure on your hips, it’s either poorly adjusted, or it just doesn’t fit well.
How comfortable is the harness when belaying?
What are the leg loops like and how is the weight distributed in the harness?
4. Functionality & Handling
How well can the individual parts of the harness be adjusted (waistbelt, leg loops, rise straps…)?
Is it a practical climbing harness or one that gets tangled easily and can’t be adjusted quickly?
- Are the buckles well-made? Are they easy to use?
- Is the harness easy to put on?
- Can loose straps be attached or do they dangle around?
5. Extras and Workmanship
– Is the harness well-made, or did we notice any flaws while testing it?
– What about the gear loops and adjustment options?
– Are there extras like a haul loop, drop seat, or additional gear loops?
6. Weight
I’m not a fan of bulky and heavy harnesses. Cheap models tend to be a bit bulky – at the expense of mobility and freedom of movement.
7. Price
Obviously, the price is also an important factor. We deducted some points if the harness is more expensive than equivalent models.
Climbing Harness – Full Reviews
Best Allround Climbing Harness for Beginners
Black Diamond Momentum
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Tech specs:
Weight: 350 g
Gear loops: 4
Closure system: 1 waistbelt, 2 adjustable leg loops
Extras:
– Haul loop
– Adjustable elastic risers
Application: All-round (sport climbing, indoor climbing, alpine climbing, Via Ferrata)
The perfect all-rounder – a climbing harness that you can use for just about anything.
The flexible adjustment options make the Momentum extremely versatile and ensure that you can use it for sport climbing just as well as for alpine climbing or via Ferrata. At 350 g, it’s still quite lightweight and beats the beats second Place (Petzl Sama) by 65 g.
In addition, the Momentum has an unbeatable price-performance ratio compared to the competition. All this rightfully makes the Momentum the best all-round climbing harnesses on the market.
The Momentum is also available as a women’s version.
Best Rock Climbing Harness
Black Diamond Solution
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Tech specs:
Weight: 330 g
Gear loops: 4
Closure system: waistbelt, elastic leg loops
Extras:
– pressure-molded gear loops
– triple-weave webbing
Application: Allround (sport climbing, indoor climbing, alpine climbing, via ferrata, multi-pitch climbing)
If your focus is rock climbing – either gym or outdoor – this is the harness for you.
The Solution wins this category because we think it’s the ideal sport climbing harness. Lightweight yet comfortable.
The harness’s special construction makes it possible. The triple-weave webbing left us feeling convinced, especially in terms of hanging comfort and belaying comfort, where it beat the competition.
Second place went to the Petzl Hirundos, which is not quite as comfortable and cannot compete with the Solution in terms of price.
Another advantage of the Solution is its elastic leg loops – even though they’re obviously not as flexible as adjustable leg loops, they’re lighter, more practical, and more comfortable. For sport climbing, I recommend elastic leg loops.
The Solution is also available as a women’s version.
Best Lightweight Climbing Harness
Petzl Sitta
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Tech specs:
Weight: 270 g
Gear loops: 4 flexible loops
Closure system: waistbelt, elastic leg loops
Extras:
– Haul loop
– Ice clipper slot
Application: all-round (sport climbing, alpine climbing, via ferrata, high mountain touring, multi-pitch climbing)
The harness is lighter than most other climbing harnesses, yet it’s surprisingly comfortable.
The Sitta is not only lightweight but also a real all-rounder. It received top marks in our test, especially for mobility and freedom of movement.
The ingenious Wireframe technology integrates Dyneema strands into the harness – a solid and resistant material that is extremely lightweight. Although the Sitta is very lightweight and packable, it offers enough storage space for additional gear such as ice screws, nuts, friends, etc.
The combination of its low weight and comfort make the harness very versatile – you really can use the Sitta for anything. It’s not cheap, but if you’re looking for an absolute high-end climbing harness with limitless applications, then it’s worth considering.
Best Alpine / Ice Climbing Harness
Arcteryx AR-395a
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Tech specs:
Weight: 395 g
Gear loops: 5 flexible loops
Closure system: waistbelt, adjustable leg loops
Extras :
– Haul loop
– Ice clipper slot
Application: alpine climbing, aid mountaineering, ice climbing, multi-pitch climbing
Particularly good when a lot of gear is needed, as is often the case in aid mountaineering, alpine climbing, and ice climbing.
The versatile AR-395a can be adjusted to make you prepared for any undertaking. The gear loops provide ample space for ice axes, ice screws, and nuts.
The harness is designed in such a way that it remains perfectly snug even when fully loaded. In the test criteria “hanging comfort” and “belaying comfort,” the Arcteryx is among the best.
If the harness is properly adjusted, it offers complete freedom of movement, even with fully loaded gear loops (ice screws, quickdraws, etc.).
The positioning of the ice clipper slots is well thought out. They’re located slightly further in front than on other harnesses, making them easy to reach – perfect for ice climbing.
The AR-395a is also a great all-around climbing harness for anyone who doesn’t want to limit themselves to one discipline and wants to try anything from sport to ice climbing.
The women’s model is called: AR-385a
If you’re looking for a somewhat lighter climbing harness in this category, you should take a closer look at our second place, the Black Diamond Technician. It weighs a bit less (380 g) and is also slightly cheaper. However, it can’t quite keep up with the fit and comfort of the AR-395a.
Best Multi-pitch / Trad Climbing Harness
Black Diamond Solution Guide
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Tech specs:
Weight: 394 g
Gear loops: 5 flexible loops
Closure system: waistbelt, elastic leg loops
Extras:
– Haul loop
– Extremely durable material
Application: multi-pitch climbing, trad climbing, sport climbing
More durable than any other climbing harness.
The Solution Guide is quite similar to the Solution (our winner for best sport climbing harness) in structure and construction but has 3 key differences that make it the best multi-pitch and trad climbing harness.
The Solution Guide
a.) is even more durable. The special material (Super Fabric®) is a touch heavier (64 g) but extra durable and abrasion-resistant.
b.) has an extra gear loop that provides extra room for gear – ideal for multi-pitch or trad climbing.
c.) has a slightly wider waistbelt for additional support and comfort.
The regular Solution is sufficient for most people. Still, if you’re looking for something more durable, specifically for multi-pitch climbing and trad climbing, it’s worth investing in the Solution Guide.
It’s also available as a women’s version: Women’s Solution Guide.
Best Allround Climbing Harness for Women
Petzl Luna
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Tech specs:
Weight: 470 g
Gear loops: 2 rigid loops, 3 flexible loops
Closure system: waistbelt, adjustable leg loops
Extras:
– Haul loop
– Ice clipper slots
Application: Allround (multi-pitch climbing, alpine, sport climbing…)
The Luna is the perfect allrounder and tailor-made for the anatomy of women.
The waistbelt is contoured to conform to the shape of the pelvis and back.
The distance between the leg loops and the waistbelt was adapted to ensure a better fit at the waist. It received top marks in terms of wearing comfort in our test.
If you’re looking for a climbing harness that you can use for all types of climbing… The Luna is a good choice.
Please note that some of our other test winners offer special women’s models.
However, especially our beautifully curvy female test participants praised the Luna, making it the winner in the women’s category.
For all those who are looking for something lighter, we recommend the runner-up, the Edelrid Jayne III.
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Different Types of Climbing Harnesses.
There are 3 types of climbing harnesses – the waistbelt is generally used for climbing activities. These disciplines include:
- Sport climbing
- Alpine climbing
- Ice climbing
- Via Ferrata
- Multi-pitch climbing
- Trad climbing
- Mountaineering/ glacier touring
Waistbelt
As the name suggests, a waist belt is worn around the waist. All waistbelts are tested according to EN and UIAA standards and meet all current safety standards. Depending on the activities the harness is intended for, it differs in terms of weight and comfort.
Chest harness
A chest harness is used in combination with a waist belt when additional support is needed. This may be the case when climbing with a heavy backpack or industrial climbing. A chest strap is not sufficient by itself; it must always be worn in combination with a waist belt.
Full-body Harness
This type of harness consists of a waistbelt and a chest harness and provides ultimate safety and support.
Full-body harnesses are used mainly for small children under 40 kg.
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Parts of a Climbing Harness
Waistbelt
The amount of padding in the waistbelt depends on the requirements of the harness. More padding results in more weight but also more comfort. Ultra-lightweight harnesses are hardly padded at all, while beginner harnesses are usually padded generously.
Waist buckle
The waist buckle is used to precisely adjust the harness to your size. Most climbing harnesses have one waist buckle; particularly customizable models have two buckles. Personally, I think one buckle is enough. The buckles must be practical and easy to use.
Gear loops
Gear loops are attached to the side of the harness. They’re used to transport quickdraws, carabiners, ice screws, nuts, cords, etc. Most harnesses have either four or five of these loops, depending on their intended uses. Good gear loops protrude slightly from the waistbelt – making it easier to use the gear.
Belay loop
This is where the carabiner, including the belay device, is attached – the rope can also be tied in here, but I personally recommend passing the rope through the two tie-in loops. Why? Because this way, the knot is closer to the body’s center of gravity, which results in a more stable hanging position and reduces the risk of tipping over.
Tie-in loops
The rope is attached to these two points. The rope is passed through both loops and tied in using Figure 8 Knots or Double Bowline Knots. Frequent use makes this area prone to wear, so it should be checked regularly.
Elastic straps
The straps connect the leg loops to the waistbelt and ensure an optimal fit of the harness and the leg loops. These straps are usually adjustable and can be detached from the waistbelt.
Leg loops
The amount of padding the leg loops employ depends on the model. They’re connected to the elastic straps on the back and the lower tie-in loop on the front of the harness. Some leg loops have buckles, which make them manually adjustable, while others have elastic bands that adjust to the circumference of the thigh.
Buckles have the advantage of being able to be adjusted precisely, which, for example, can come in handy when you’re wearing thick pants in winter. Elastic bands are lighter, which makes them the preferred choice for disciplines like sport climbing.
Haul loop
The haul loop can be used for hauling additional heavy gear (backpack, rope…) during trad climbs, multi-pitch climbs, or alpine undertakings. If it’s not used for hauling, you can attach other items such as shoes or a belay device, etc., to it. The big difference from ordinary gear loops is that the haul loop can carry more weight.
Additional slots for ice clippers or gear-holding carabiners
You can attach special gear-holding carabiners or ice clippers to these slots. These openings are designed for special carabiners to have a tight fit and keep them from shifting – this makes using them much easier. Ice clippers are mainly used for ice screws or ice axes and are a must-have for ice climbers.
Putting on a Climbing Harness – How Tight Should a Climbing Harness fit?
Step 1: Find the right size
Climbing harnesses, like clothing, come in different sizes. Therefore, you must find the size that fits you best. For each size (they usually range from S to XL), the respective waist circumference is also specified – so if you want to be on the safe side, measure your waist and leg circumference before buying the harness.
Step 2: Waistbelt
- The waist belt doesn’t sit directly on the hip bones but above them.
- The fastened waistbelt must fit tightly enough that it can’t slip down under any circumstances.
- The waistbelt must fit relatively tightly, without hindering your breathing or restricting your range of motion in any way.
- The climbing harness must be centered. Accordingly, the belay loop should be exactly in the middle, with the gear loops placed symmetrically on each side.
Step 3: Leg loops
- The leg loops should be located at the top of the thighs – so relatively high up, near the hips.
- The height of the leg loops can be adjusted with the elastic straps on the back.
- The leg loops don’t have to be as tight as the waistbelt – your flat hand should still just barely fit between your thigh and each leg loop.
- If the leg loops are too tight, your freedom of movement will be restricted. If they’re too wide, hanging in the harness will be uncomfortable.
The waistbelt must be tight enough to make it impossible to slip out. The leg loops should be just tight enough that they do not restrict your freedom of movement.
How to Tie Into the Harness
The most common knot for securing the rope to the harness is the Figure 8 Knot. It’s the standard knot for sport climbers. It’s safe, simple, and easy to check – so if it’s tied incorrectly, you or your climbing partner will notice immediately.
Alternatively, the Double Bowline Knot is often used by mountain guides and has the advantage of being easy to open, even after several falls. The disadvantage is that it’s not as widely used, so the partner check is useless if your climbing partner doesn’t know it.
- Super save and durable
- Soft catch
- Abrasion-resistant
- Best bang for the buck
Which Harness for what Activities?
Climbing harnesses are not really divided into fixed categories. Hence, there are no climbing harnesses that work exclusively for one type of climbing, like alpine climbing or sport climbing.
The different types of climbing harnesses range from ultra-lightweight harnesses for mountaineering (designed to be as minimalist as possible in all aspects) to harnesses for big wall climbing, where it’s important to transport a lot of gear for long periods of time.
Most climbing harnesses are somewhere between lightweight and durable beasts of burden.
For the average Joe, buying just one climbing harness is perfectly adequate, as long as you consider what you primarily want to use the harness for before you buy it – the following overview will help you make the right choice.
Climbing Harness for Sport Climbing
Sport climbing harnesses are definitely on the lighter side of things. For rock climbing, you need next to nothing, aside from some quickdraws. Depending on the climbing area and the tour length, 10 to 15 quickdraws are usually enough.
Since the required gear is quite manageable, unrestricted mobility and freedom of movement are clearly the most important factors. Furthermore, the harness doesn’t need to have adjustable leg loops as long as you buy one that fits well, which will save additional weight.
Features:
- Lightweight
- 100% freedom of movement
- Comfortable (when climbing as well as belaying)
Our recommendation is the winner of the sport climbing category: Black Diamond Solution.
Alpine / Mountaineering / Big wall
Here we’re dealing with walls that have to be partially or entirely belayed by the climbers themselves. The tours usually take quite some time and are belayed with the help of mobile belay devices such as ascenders, friends, pitons, or similar gear.
The climbing harness must hold a large amount of gear while still providing a snug fit. Since you’re often on the move for multiple hours on these tours and have to hang in the harness for a long time, a wider (more comfortable) waistbelt and wider leg loops are advantageous.
Adjustable leg loops are not necessary. Depending on the undertaking, they do, however, offer a little more flexibility and can therefore be quite practical, especially in colder climates where thick pants are needed.
Our recommendation is the winner of the alpine / mountaineering / big wall category: Arcteryx AR-395a.
Features:
- Comfortable
- Durable
- Gear loops
- Adjustable leg loops (optional)
Multi-pitch / Trad climbing
Multi-pitch climbing routes, which have fixed and intermediate belay points, require more gear than sport climbing (belaying, rappelling, etc.) but less than trad climbing.
Personally, I wouldn’t necessarily completely forgo comfort on longer tours (lots of time spent sitting in the harness). Still, unrestricted freedom of movement should be a given (it just makes climbing more fun).
Depending on the tour, you’re usually best off with a comfortable sport climbing harness that has a little extra space for gear.
Our recommendation for multi-pitch climbing: Black Diamond Solution Guide.
Features:
- Relatively comfortable
- Relatively lightweight
- Space for gear
- Durable
Harness for Via Ferrata
A lightweight harness with great freedom of movement is more than enough.
Attention: If you’re considering getting into multi-pitch climbing or any other climbing discipline in the future, you should keep that in mind when choosing your harness – not all specialized “Via Ferrata harnesses” are suitable for climbing.
Our recommendation for an all-round climbing harness: Black Diamond Momentum.
Features:
- Lightweight
- 100% freedom of movement
- Packable
- Ideally also suitable for climbing
Technical Mountaineering
Lightweight, packable harnesses have a clear advantage here.
Some harnesses like the Petzl Altitude are specifically designed for mountaineering and are ideal for when you inevitably end up having to take a fall.
For disciplines like sport climbing, where falls are common, these special types of harnesses are not really suitable – they would catch the fall but be relatively uncomfortable due to the narrow waistbelt and leg loops.
Recommendation for ultra-lightweight high mountain touring: Edelrid Loopo (at just 80 g one of the lightest harnesses ever).
Alternatively, I recommend the winner of our lightweight harness category – the Petzl Sitta – because it can be used not only for high altitude touring, but also for any other type of climbing.
Features:
- Lightweight
- Compact
Ice climbing
For ice climbing, durable harnesses with a sufficient number of gear loops and attachment options are required. In addition, adjustable leg loops are advantageous since the bone-chilling cold (ice’s favorite conditions) often requires wearing several layers of clothing.
Adjustable leg loops also come in handy when putting on and taking off crampons. Additionally, the buckles should be easy to operate while wearing gloves.
Extra slots for ice screw clips are also a necessity.
Recommendation for ice climbing: Arcteryx AR-395a or Black Diamond Technician.
Features:
- Durable
- Gear loops
- Slots for gear-holding carabiners or ice clippers (ice screws)
- Adjustable leg loops
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Fixed vs. Adjustable Leg Loops?
Fixed leg loops are simple and straightforward.
The elastic bands do the fine-tuning all by themselves and can adapt to the thigh if necessary. In addition, the lower weight is a big plus, which makes fixed leg loops ideal for sport climbing or multi-pitch climbing.
Adjustable leg loops allow for maximum customization, giving you a clear advantage in some situations:
a.) When several layers of clothing are necessary (winter, ice climbing)
b.) If you have unusually thin or thick thighs
Versatile climbers own at least two harnesses, one of which certainly has adjustable leg loops.
How Much Does a Climbing Harness Cost?
Climbing harnesses cost between 40 and 160 dollars. What do you pay for in a climbing harness?
The perfect climbing harness weighs next to nothing, is very packable, offers great comfort and includes all the extras. This can only be achieved by:
a.) innovative design
b.) an intricate manufacturing process
c.) special materials that are lightweight yet very durable
All of this comes at a cost that is factored into the retail price.
Cheap harnesses are just as safe as expensive harnesses but are usually heavier, stiffer, and not as comfortable. In addition, due to the cheaper materials used and their larger pack size, these climbing harnesses wear out much faster.
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How Safe is my Climbing Harness?
To ensure absolute safety, standardization is mandatory for all climbing harnesses sold in Europe,so you will not find a harness that doesn’t meet the current safety standards in Europe. Full-body harnesses and waist harnesses must withstand a load of 15 kN – chest harnesses 10 kN.
How much is 15 kN you ask?
Glad you asked… 15 kilonewtons is exactly 1529.57 kg. In other words, your belt can withstand 1.5 tons, which is just about what a normal SUV weighs.
Climbing Harness for the Gym
If you only climb indoors, you can forgo any extras. The perfect indoor climbing harness is lightweight, offers full freedom of movement, and is still comfortable. There are special indoor climbing harnesses that only have 2 gear loops since no quickdraws or any other gear is required when climbing in the gym.
All extras such as haul loops, ice clipper slots or adjustable leg loops can be done without.
Personally, I recommend a lightweight sport climbing harness for indoor climbing, which can also be used when you climb outdoors.
Climbing Harness for Children
From 3 – 10 years old, children should always wear a full-body harness, which is worn around the hips, legs and chest area. It provides maximum safety and makes it impossible to tip over or slip out of theharness.
I bought my daughter a climbing harness when she was 5 years old and highly recommend full-body harnesses. Whether for climbing, via ferrata or on hikes, the harness makes the children (and parents) feel safe.
Once a kid weighs more than 40 kg and is taller than 135 – 140 cm, they can make the switch to just a waistbelt.
Women’s Harnesses – What’s the Difference to Men’s Harnesses?
In principle, women can also wear men’s or unisex climbing harnesses. For some women, however, it makes sense to switch to a women’s harness.
If the unisex harness doesn’t fit perfectly or is uncomfortable, you should make the switch to a women’s harness.
Special women’s harnesses are designed to conform to women’s body shapes more closely and take into account narrower waists and larger thigh circumferences. Longerbelay loops and risers ensure that harnesses sit comfortably above the hips.
How Long do Climbing Harnesses Last?
According to most manufacturers, the life expectancy of a climbing harness is 5 years. However, this information is no more and no less than a guideline. The life expectancy greatly depends on how often you climb and how well you treat your harness.
After a certain point it makes sense to regularly inspect your harness. Pay particular attention to the leg loops and tie-in loops. Please replace the harness if it shows considerable signs of wear.
As soon as there is even the slightest doubt about the safety of your harness, you will constantly have that worry in the back of your mind – whether you want to or not.
Small doubts may well creep into your mind subconsciously and make your performance slowly deteriorate due to psychological stresses (fear of falling, insecurity, etc.).
So if in doubt, replace it – the same thing goes for climbing ropes, by the way. Damage to harnesses and climbing ropes is not acceptable.
How to Store Climbing Harnesses
- Dirt, sunlight, and moisture significantly shorten the life expectancy of harnesses and should be avoided.
- Furthermore, make sure that the harness is not stored or transported with sharp objects (ice axes, crampons, etc.).
- The harness is best stored cleanly and in a dark and dry place, away from sharp objects and chemicals (varnish, gasoline, oil…).